How to Install Hardwood Floors

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Step 1: Determine the Installation Method
Engineered hardwood–Since engineered hardwood offers a floating, click-lock design, the glue-down and staple-down method works best.
Solid hardwood–The nail-down method is ideal, but requires a wooden subfloor.
Step 2: Prepare Your Space
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Remove baseboards and ensure the subfloor has no squeaks and is smooth, sanding down uneven areas.
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Mark walls to show floor joist locations.
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Roll out strips of a moisture inhibitor or vapor barrier paper, running the strip perpendicular to the joints with a 4-inch overlap.
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Measure and snap a line to guide the first installed row. (You can also use the longest wall as a guide.)
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Rack the boards by laying out the planks in the order you will install them. Otherwise, you may find obvious contrasts and fewer shade variations. It breaks up lengths, too.
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Stagger the end joints to offset six inches from the end of the board in the previous row.
Step 3: Install by Chosen Method
Glue down
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Before beginning the glue-down method, make sure to test the subfloor layer for moisture. The NWFA recommends using either a probe or pinless meter in order to test wood subfloors. An excess amount of moisture can range from at least 6 percent to 30 percent.
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After moisture has been properly measured, determine a starting wall and working line and begin the process with a starter board.
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With a trowel, spread adhesive in small sections to work on a few rows at a time.
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Lay first row and then the second, fitting the groove into the tongue.
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Use spacers to maintain the expansion gap.
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Tap planks in place using a rubber mallet, repeating after each is installed to ensure they’re flush.
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For engineered hardwood, match up and push the ends into place.
Nail the board down
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After determining a starting wall, align the first board with the layout.
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Put a ¾-inch space against the adjoining wall and slide the edge of the board against it.
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Lock the tongue and groove in place and push for a tight seam.
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Nail the board using appropriate fasteners, moving down until you reach the side wall.
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Drill pilot holes in the tongues, nailing the countersink through.
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After installing the second or third row, there should be room to position a flooring nailer to drive a nail through the tongue with a mallet.
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Repeat the same way across the room, staggering ends in adjoining rows by six inches.
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Once you reach the other side, return to predrilling holes for face-nailing when you have finished laying all boards.
Staple down
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Predrill holes on the first row and hammer the nail one inch from the wall at four-inch intervals.
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For second and third rows, drive staples in at a 45-degree angle every four inches.
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On the last row, use the predrill nailing method using a nail punch.
Step 4: Fill Any Spaces with Wood Putty
- Replace any flooring transitions and shoe molding in the room.
- Find a wood-matched putty and fill all nail holes that have been face-nailed.
- Fill each nail hole and wipe off any excess.
As you can see, installing hardwood is not an easy DIY task. Twenty & Oak recommends that homeowners seek the help of a professional flooring installer.
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Twenty & Oak Flooring Experts
Twenty & Oak Flooring Experts are a team of flooring professionals with over 150 years of combined experience in the industry. They have hands-on experience with all flooring types and bring inside industry know-how to homeowners in the Southeast.
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